Every hollow chisel mortiser does the same job, so the differences are narrower than most roundups make them sound. What actually changes between them is mass, motor size, how far the table travels, and whether the chisels come in the box. We worked through six machines for this guide, from a 44 pound benchtop unit to a 276 pound floor stander, and the honest answer is that the JET JBM-5 wins for most woodworkers because three chisels come in the box and the column is reversible.
A mortising machine spins a square hollow chisel on a vertical spindle and shears a square socket out of the work in one plunge. That is the whole idea. The chisel’s outer walls are square, the inner core is augered out, and the waste leaves as a single column of chips. A drill press attachment tries to fake the same result with a chisel axis adapter, and a plunge router with a jig does it with a straight bit and a slide. Both work. Neither is as repeatable, and the machine owners we studied describe the dedicated unit as the one that stays square year after year.
Who this guide is for: furniture and cabinet makers, anyone cutting batches of identical mortises, and hobbyists who already own a planer, jointer and table saw. If you are making one cabinet with four mortises, read our comparison section below before spending anything. A plunge router and a good jig will get you there for a fraction of the money and a fraction of the bench space.
We also cover the machines that come up constantly in shop conversations. If you are still building out your stationary tool inventory, our guides to the best milling machines and the best jigsaws cover the neighbours in a small shop. The best ironworker machines guide covers the fabrication side of the same shop.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Mortising Machines for Woodworking in October 2026
JET JBM-5 Benchtop Mortiser
- 0.5 hp motor at 1750 rpm
- Reversible column for long timber
- Three chisels included
- 44 lb benchtop cast iron body
Powermatic PM701 Mortiser
- 0.75 hp motor at 1725 rpm
- 84 lb cast iron mass
- Cam lock fence
- Chisels sold separately
Powermatic 719T Tilt Table Mortiser
- 1 hp motor at 1725 rpm
- 1 inch chisel capacity
- Tilt table with handwheel travel
- 276 lb floor standing
All Six Mortising Machines Compared in October 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| JET JBM-5 Benchtop Mortiser |
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Check Latest Price |
| Powermatic PM701 Benchtop Mortiser |
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 Makita 7104L Chain Mortiser |
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| Powermatic 719T Tilt Table Mortiser |
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Check Latest Price |
 Virutex FC116U Lock Mortiser |
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 CXRCY 3/4 HP Benchtop Mortiser |
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Check Latest Price |
1. JET JBM-5 Benchtop Mortiser – The Best All-Rounder With Chisels in the Box
JET Benchtop Mortiser, 1/2″ Chisel, 4-3/4″ Stroke, 115V 1Ph (Model JBM-5)
0.5 hp at 1750 rpm
44 lb net weight
4-3/4 inch stroke
Three hollow chisels included
Five year warranty
Pros
- Reversible column handles long timber
- Three chisels included in the box
- Quick adjust depth stop for repeat depths
- Assembles in minutes
- Quiet compared with larger mortisers
Cons
- Hold-down arms press unevenly
- Coarse table adjustment shifts the work
- Reversing the head for long timber needs a base jig
The JBM-5 is the machine we kept coming back to. It is a 0.5 hp benchtop mortiser running at 1750 rpm on 115 volts, it weighs 44 pounds, and it arrives with three hollow chisels in the box. That last point decides the comparison for most home shops, because a hollow chisel mortiser without chisels is an expensive paperweight until you order a set.
Owners consistently report that the 1/2 hp motor powers cleanly through oak without bogging, and that the fence and depth stop are quick to dial in. The removable on/off toggle switch and the two hinged side doors that open straight to the chuck are small touches that show up every single time you change a bit.
The design decision that sets the JBM-5 apart is the reversible column. Most benchtop mortisers mortise with the head at the near end of the table, which limits you to short timber. The JET column swings 180 degrees so the spindle sits over the far end, and a depth of just over four inches of stroke keeps the cut where you need it.
Be aware that the hold-down is the weak point, and it is the single complaint that appears again and again across reviews. The hold-down arms press unevenly and tend to nudge the workpiece toward the machine, so many owners build wooden wedges or add their own quick-grip clamps. A few also report the hydraulic cylinder popping off its connection, though the manufacturer replaced the part.
What the JET JBM-5 gets right out of the box
Three chisels come in the box, along with the 3/4 inch and 5/8 inch chisel bushings, a spindle extension, the chuck key, the table, the hold-down and the fence assembly. The included set is sharp enough to work with immediately, which removes the most common reason a new mortiser sits unused in a corner for a month.
The three-jaw chuck grips mortising bits with shanks up to 3/8 inch, and the long multi-position handle can be repositioned so you can pull the lever through its travel standing to one side rather than leaning over the work. For batch work, the quick adjust depth stop is what makes identical mortises repeatable.
Where the JET JBM-5 will frustrate you
Table adjustment is coarse, and tightening the lock screw shifts the workpiece, so fine layout changes mean loosening, nudging and retightening repeatedly. If you are cutting a series of mortises at slightly different positions, that cycle gets old fast. Plan your layout in pencil on the workpiece first and make few, decisive adjustments.
Reversing the head for long timber requires a pedestal or a rotating base jig, so while the reversible column is genuinely useful, the full benefit only arrives if you add the accessory. The MDF surface on top of the cast iron table also draws criticism from buyers who assume it is flimsy, when in practice it is a stable surface with a replaceable top.
2. Powermatic PM701 Benchtop Mortiser – Most Mass and Motor Power Per Bench Foot
Powermatic Benchtop Mortiser, 3/4″ Chisel, 5-1/2″ Stroke, 115/230V 1Ph (Model PM701)
0.75 hp at 1725 rpm
84 lb net weight
5-1/2 inch stroke
0.5 inch max chuck
Convertible to 230V
Pros
- Heaviest benchtop cast iron here
- 3/4 hp plows through hard oak and koa
- Cam action fence lock in one movement
- Double lock hold-down resists slippage
- Inline depth stop
Cons
- Chisels sold separately
- Handle arc starts out of reach
- Integrated chisel rack sits near your hands
The PM701 is what you buy when you want a benchtop mortiser that behaves like a floor stander in miniature. At 84 pounds it is nearly twice the mass of the JET, and the 0.75 hp motor is the strongest in the benchtop class. Owners report it plowing through hard oak and koa without bogging or chipping up, and the cast iron table and column read as serious castings rather than painted steel.
Setup is where this machine pulls ahead. The quick-action cam lock secures the fence with a single 90 degree movement, and two integrated bit and chisel spacers cut the fiddly shimming step down. The large hinged chuck door with a magnetic catch gives fast access when you change chisels, and the hold-down uses a double lock at the top and side to resist workpiece slippage.
Two features matter more than they sound. The inline depth stop lets you stop at a preset depth without racking the bit all the way down to the base, which saves a lot of time in batch work. And the heavy-duty reversible handle installs on either side of the head without tools, so you can put it where your body naturally wants it.
The catch is that mortising chisels are not included. You are buying a machine and then ordering a chisel set separately, which moves real money to the back of the queue and explains why a lot of PM701 owners describe their first month with the machine as setup rather than cutting.
Why the PM701 stays square longer
Calibration retention is what separates a benchtop mortiser from a bigger machine, and it comes down to mass in the base and rigidity in the gibs. At 84 pounds with a cast iron column, the PM701 resists the side load that a plunging chisel puts on the head, which is why long term owners describe it as essentially trouble-free after the setup period.
Most of the critical reviews we found point at head gib adjustment and some side-to-side chisel deflection, so this is not a machine that never needs attention. It is a machine where that attention is a one-time adjustment rather than a recurring fight, and the owner reports that fence and hold-down rigidity is the most-cited reason people keep it.
What you take on with the PM701
The handle travels nearly 270 degrees, so it begins out of reach and ends up against the bench edge. On a bench that is exactly the right height for the JBM-5, the PM701 wants a slightly taller stance or a rethink of your approach, and that is a real ergonomic difference you will feel in the first hour.
The hold-down is also still hard to release from the workpiece after a cut, the U-shaped hold-down screw is cambered which makes height adjustment awkward, and the manual is thin on the clearance setting between chisel and bit. Plan a few minutes with the machine and a straightedge before your first real cut rather than trusting the manual.
3. Makita 7104L Chain Mortiser – Built for Logs and Thick Timber
Makita – 7410L 7104L 10.5 Amp Chain Mortiser
10.5 amp at 3200 rpm
38.1 lb net weight
21/32 inch mortiser chain
240 volt
Log capacity 3-1/8 to 12-1/8 inch
Pros
- Chews through thick timber and logs fast
- Light for a chain mortiser at 38.1 lb
- Large adjustable vise grips a wide range of logs
- Chain is resharpened not replaced
- Cuts lap joints up to 5-1/8 inch
Cons
- Exposed chain is a safety hazard
- Chain oiling and tension checks are constant
- Not for joinery scale mortises
The Makita 7104L is a different machine doing a different job, and it belongs in this guide because it is what a mortiser looks like when the work is timber rather than furniture. It runs a 10.5 amp motor at 3200 rpm, drives a 21/32 inch mortiser chain, and grips logs from 3-1/8 inch to 12-1/8 inch thick in a large adjustable vise with a knob.
What that buys you is the ability to notch or cut through holes in timber that no hollow chisel mortiser would survive. Owners describe the motor as notching through thick hardwood quickly, and they value the fact that the chain is resharpened in place rather than replaced like a set of chisels. A 21/32 inch chain and a bar and chain oil are included, along with a wrench.
It is also lighter than you expect. At 38.1 pounds it is easier to move between jobs than other chain mortisers, and at 240 volts it is a machine for a shop with a proper circuit rather than a garage outlet.
The ratings here are the most polarized in our group, and the reason is instructive. A large share of buyers rate it five stars for raw cutting ability, while a meaningful number of one-star reviews focus on the exposed chain, the oiling routine and the danger. Same machine, different relationship with safety.
Where the chain mortiser beats a spindle machine
Cutting into end grain. That is the honest answer, and it is why this class exists. A hollow chisel relies on the chisel cutting its own way into the face of the work, which is exactly what makes end grain difficult or impossible for a spindle mortiser. A chain bites wherever you put it, so posts, legs, uprights and round timber are all fair game.
It also cuts lap joints up to 5-1/8 inch, which no hollow chisel in this roundup can do. For timber framing, log work and heavy posts, this is the tool that gets the job done without drama.
Why it is the wrong choice for furniture
A long electric chain around your hands and wrists is a real safety consideration, not a marketing caveat. The chain must be checked for sharpness and tension and refilled with oil regularly, and owners describe the setup as constant upkeep that never really ends.
More practically, chain work is slower than spindle work at joinery scale, and it is noisy and dusty compared with an enclosed spindle mortiser. If your project list is chairs, tables and cabinets, buy a hollow chisel machine instead.
4. Powermatic 719T Tilt Table Mortiser – Heaviest Duty Machine Here
Powermatic Tilt Table Mortiser, 1″ Chisel, 10-3/4″ Stroke, 115/230V 1Ph (Model 719T)
1 hp at 1725 rpm
276 lb net weight
1 inch chisel capacity
10-3/4 inch stroke
Tilt table with handwheel travel
Pros
- Handwheels give smooth linear and cross table motion
- Tilt table handles large timber and angled work
- Rack and pinion head lift
- Gas cylinder head raising
- Adjustable work stop for repeat cuts
Cons
- 276 pounds is effectively immovable
- Takes a dedicated floor bay
- Column and stand must be levelled before use
The 719T is the machine you buy when the mortiser is a permanent fixture in a working shop. It is a floor stander at 276 pounds with a 1 hp motor, a tilt table, handwheel-controlled linear and cross travel, and a 1 inch chisel capacity that none of the benchtop machines here can match.
Owners who bought it point at the tilt table and the handwheel motions as the features that make large heavy workpieces practical. A rack and pinion system under gas cylinder control raises and lowers the head smoothly, the feed lever has detented size positions for quick adjustments, and the hinged chuck door allows fast bit changes.
Two details separate this from every other machine in the guide. The table mounted swiveling vise clamp holds angled workpieces, which matters when you are mortising a leg at a compound angle. And the adjustable work stop supports repeat cuts, so a batch of identical mortises does not depend on your marking accuracy on every piece.
The rating average of 4.5 sits at the top of the group, though it comes from a much smaller review base than the benchtop machines. The distribution is also unusually clean, with 79 percent five star and no three-star ratings at all, which usually signals a machine that either suits you completely or not at all.
What the tilt table and handwheels actually do
The tilt table swings so you can work on large timber without the workpiece hanging off the back, and the two handwheels give you independent control of linear and cross table motion. That is what lets you position a mortise anywhere on a face without shimming and re-measuring, and it is the reason a machine of this size can handle work that a benchtop unit would refuse.
A 10-3/4 inch stroke also gives far more vertical room than any benchtop model here, which matters for deep mortises in thick hardwood and for the clearance you need when the chisel is properly centred in its bushing.
Where the 719T is the wrong purchase
At 276 pounds the machine and its stand are not casually repositioned. Once you level the column and stand, that is where it lives. In a small or multi-use space this is a serious commitment of floor area for a tool that some hobbyists honestly admit they would use only occasionally.
It also arrives as a build. The stand and column must be assembled and levelled before use, and the 1725 rpm spindle speed demands very sharp chisels for a clean cut. A dull chisel at that speed is the fastest route to burn marks you will have to sand out.
5. Virutex FC116U Lock Mortiser – For Door Hardware, Not Joinery
Virutex FC116U Lock Mortiser Machine for Wooden Doors, Portable Professional Mortising Tool for On-Site and Workshop Use, 1100W
1100W motor
54 lb net weight
Vacuum dust extraction port
Repeatable depth and length
Factory accessory for handle drilling
Pros
- Cuts lock pockets on hung or flat doors
- Adjustment system repeats the same mortise
- Controlled depth and length
- Vacuum port keeps the site clean
Cons
- Cannot cut mortise and tenon joints
- Limited to door hardware work
- Only 20 reviews so far
We are including the FC116U because it solves a real problem and the name confuses people constantly. This is a lock mortiser, not a hollow chisel joinery mortiser. It cuts the pocket for a door lock, then the factory accessory handles the handle and lock component drilling. It will not cut a mortise and tenon joint at all.
What it does well is repeatability. The controlled mortising depth and length give systematic results, and the adjustment system repeats the same mortise across multiple doors without re-measuring. That is exactly what you want on site when a schedule says six identical doors go in this week.
The holding system works on doors already hung vertically or on doors laid horizontally, which removes the argument about whether you can take the door off its hinges. A vacuum connection port accepts external dust extraction, and at 1100W with a 54 pound net weight it is genuinely portable for a 1100W tool of this type.
Our review of this one comes with a caveat attached. The 4.9 average comes from 20 reviews with nothing rated below four stars, which is a thin long-term record. Ratings that clean usually mean a tool that is used for one specific task and judged only on that task.
When the FC116U is the right tool
Door installation, renovation work and any job where you are fitting new hardware to existing doors. The rated accuracy on lock mortises is the strongest argument for it, and the included accessory tool means one machine covers the pocket, the handle drilling and the faceplate work.
It also suits a trade shop that would rather not unhook a door from its hinges to fit a lock. Working on the hung door is a real time saving on a fitting schedule.
When the FC116U is the wrong tool
Any mortise and tenon work. There is no hollow chisel, no square spindle and no way to turn this into a joinery mortiser. If joinery is the goal, spend your money on a hollow chisel machine instead and treat lock mortising as a separate question.
Mortising bits in different sizes are sold separately, so plan for that as an extra cost, and remember that with a review base this small you are buying on reputation rather than on a long service record.
6. CXRCY 3/4 HP Benchtop Mortiser – Least Cost Entry Into Hollow Chisel Work
Benchtop Mortiser, 3400RPM 3/4HP Woodworking Mortising Machine with 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″ Chisels Wooden Workbench, Benchtop Drill Press for Making Round Holes Square Holes Or Special Square Holes
0.75 hp at 3400 rpm
47.1 lb net weight
Cast iron body
Three chisels included
Single speed
Pros
- Cast iron body gives a stable benchtop platform
- Three chisels at 1/4
- 3/8 and 1/2 inch included
- Gear transmission and long handle reduce plunge effort
- Wooden case protects the casting in transit
Cons
- 19 inch footprint limits workpiece size
- Chisels need sharpening out of the box
- Sparse review history
- Single speed only
The CXRCY is the one to look at if your objection to a dedicated mortiser is the money. It is a 3/4 hp, 550 watt pure copper motor running at 3400 rpm on 110 volts, in a grease covered cast iron body weighing 47.1 pounds, and three chisel bits at 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch are included.
For a first hollow chisel mortiser that is a genuinely complete package. Setup takes only a few minutes, a manual is included, and a thick transparent chip shield sits between you and the work. The gear transmission and long handle take real effort out of each plunge, and the machine is packed in a wooden case to protect the casting in transit.
The 3400 rpm spindle speed is higher than the 1725 to 1750 rpm the branded machines run, which means it needs sharp chisels and it makes more noise doing it. Owners generally credit the motor with quick clean cuts, but they also report the single speed leaves no way to trade torque for a finer finish on hard timber.
The feedback here is the thinnest in the roundup at 10 reviews, and the 4.0 average is the lowest of the six. The mixed distribution tells you why: plenty of people are happy, a meaningful share are not, and there is not yet a long history telling us which group a new buyer lands in.
What the CXRCY does better than its cost suggests
The cast iron body at 47 pounds is heavier than you would assume from a direct import, and that mass is what keeps the machine from walking when you plunge a chisel through hard timber. The reversible column and the transparent chip shield are both features you would often pay extra for elsewhere.
Three chisels in the box at those sizes is the real headline. It is enough to build a chair or a small table without a second purchase, and the bits can be sharpened on a stone rather than sent out for resharpening.
Where the CXRCY will hold you back
The 19 by 7.8 inch footprint is the practical limit. It is a narrow table, and it limits the size of the workpiece you can get under the fence, which rules out wide panel material and long rails without improvising a support.
Add a thin long-term service record to the list. Between a new import brand, a sparse review base, and chisels that arrive needing sharpening, this is the pick to make if your budget is the deciding factor, and the pick to skip if the machine has to survive a decade of shop use.
What Is a Mortising Machine and When Do You Need One?
A mortising machine spins a square hollow chisel on a vertical spindle at high speed. You drop the lever, the spinning chisel shears its way into the work, and the square outer walls of the chisel cut a square hole while the augered core ejects the waste as a single column of chips. The table moves on two axes and a fence plus a hold-down clamp the work, which is what makes every mortise identical to the last one.
That is the entire argument for owning one. A hand chisel and mallet can cut a better mortise than a tired machine can, but it takes practice, and it takes thirty minutes where the machine takes thirty seconds. For anyone cutting batches, the machine is not a quality upgrade so much as a change in what is possible.
A hollow chisel mortiser is therefore most useful to a furniture maker, a cabinet shop, a chair builder and anyone replicating antique joinery. A beginner making one-off projects is usually better served by a plunge router and a mortise jig, and we will get to why shortly.
Motor power and what it actually buys you
Motor size in this category ranges from 0.5 hp to 1 hp, and the difference shows up in two places: how hard the timber is, and how deep the mortise is. A 0.5 hp machine at 1750 rpm, like the JET JBM-5, handles furniture hardwoods comfortably. A 0.75 hp machine at 1725 rpm gives you headroom when you are working in oak, and a 1 hp machine gives you the ability to take a big chisel through thick timber without stalling.
Watch the spindle speed as much as the horsepower. Higher rpm means faster cutting and more noise, and it demands a sharper chisel to avoid burn marks. A dull hollow chisel at speed is the single most common cause of tear-out and scorching inside a mortise, and resharpening the chisel is the fix.
Chain mortisers sit outside this scale entirely. The Makita 7104L runs a 10.5 amp motor at 3200 rpm to drive a chain, and it is not competing on joinery quality. It competes on being able to bite into end grain and thick timber at all.
Chisel capacity and the first set to own
Chisel capacity is the largest hollow chisel a machine will accept, and it is a hard limit. The CXRCY includes 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch chisels. The JET JBM-5 arrives with a set covering 1/2 inch plus 3/4 and 5/8 inch bushings. The Powermatic 719T accepts a 1 inch chisel, which is the largest here and the reason it can handle heavy timber.
For most furniture work, a 1/2 inch chisel is the first one to own and the one you will use most. A 5/8 inch or 3/4 inch chisel suits table rails, aprons and heavier frames. Do not start with a 1 inch chisel, because on a light machine the motor will labour long before the chisel stops cutting.
Availability of replacement bits is a genuine purchase driver, and the most common question buyers ask is whether a set is included. It is worth checking before you buy, because a machine sold without chisels leaves you stalled until a set arrives.
Table, fence and hold-down rigidity
Fence and hold-down rigidity is the most-cited quality differentiator in favourable owner reports, and for good reason. A fence that flexes or a hold-down that nudges the work changes your mortise position, and position is everything.
Look for a cam action fence lock that locks in one movement, a hold-down with a second lock at the top and the side, and a fence surface that is machined rather than painted. The Powermatic PM701 scores well on all three. The JET JBM-5 holds the position but its hold-down arms press unevenly, which is why so many owners add their own wedges or clamps.
Test it the way a shop would. Chuck a piece, clamp it, and push hard on the workpiece in every direction. If it moves, the machine will move your mortise too. Table stops matter for batch work, and only some of these machines include them.
Benchtop or floor standing: the shop space reality
Net weight is the number that decides whether a machine fits your shop. The JET JBM-5 is 44 pounds. The CXRCY is 47.1. The Virutex FC116U is 54. The Makita chain mortiser is a surprisingly manageable 38.1. Then there is the Powermatic PM701 at 84 pounds and the Powermatic 719T at 276 pounds, which is not repositioned casually once its stand is levelled.
A floor stander occupies a dedicated bay and is effectively a fixture. In a small shop that is a real cost, and it is the objection we hear most often from people whose mortiser ends up covered in dust because routing a jig is easier in practice than walking across the shop to a stationary machine.
Be honest with yourself about that objection before buying. If you will make four mortises a year, a plunge router jig wins on every measure except speed. If you will make four hundred, a benchtop mortiser pays for itself in the first project.
Mortising machine vs drill press attachment vs plunge router jig
This is the most argued question in woodworking forums and it deserves a straight answer. A drill press mortising attachment is widely reported as clumsy and inaccurate, and that is the single most cited argument for buying a dedicated machine. It also ties up your drill press whenever it is in the head.
A plunge router with a mortise jig is cheap, compact and remarkably versatile, and it can cut into end grain without drama. The trade-off is accuracy and repeatability, plus a genuine learning curve. Multiple owners report router-cut mortises as less accurate and less clean-looking than hollow chisel work, and report the opposite once the hollow chisel goes dull. That comparison is really a comparison of tool technique.
Our recommendation: start with the router and jig if you are cutting occasional mortises in end grain, and move to a hollow chisel mortiser the moment you are cutting batches, want square reference points on your workpiece, or find yourself explaining away the placement of a mortise you cut last month.
For a good jig for routing mortises specifically, look for one with a positive index and a fence that references off the workpiece edge rather than a base plate, because that is what keeps repeat positions consistent.
Buying a used mortiser: what to inspect
Used is where the value lives, and a few checks separate a good machine from a bad one. First, check the table and fence for play. Lock the fence and push on it, then rock the table in both directions. Any perceptible movement means gibs or adjustment problems.
Second, inspect the spindle bearing by spinning the chuck by hand. It should spin freely with no gritty feeling. Third, verify chisel availability for that model before you commit, because discontinued bits can cost more than the machine is worth. Fourth, and most important, test-cut a scrap mortise and check that it is square. Finally, confirm the warranty status, since most of these machines carry multi-year coverage that a used sale will void.
Rust on the table surface is cosmetic. Rust pitting on the column or a chisel bore that feels rough when the head is racked down is not.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best mortiser machine?
For most home and professional woodworkers the JET JBM-5 is the best overall mortiser because it includes three hollow chisels, has a reversible column for long timber and weighs a manageable 44 pounds. Choose the Powermatic PM701 if you want more motor power and mass in a benchtop frame, or the Powermatic 719T if you have a dedicated floor bay and work in heavy timber.
What is a hollow chisel mortiser used for?
A hollow chisel mortiser cuts square-sided mortises for mortise and tenon joinery. The spinning chisel’s square outer walls shear out a square hole while the inner core ejects the waste as a column of chips. It is the fastest repeatable way to cut the recessed sockets used in face frames, table rails, chair rails and cabinet construction.
How much does a mortiser cost?
Hollow chisel mortisers span a wide range, from direct-import benchtop units with three chisels included up to professional floor-standing machines with tilt tables and 1 inch chisel capacity. The variables that move you between tiers are motor horsepower, net weight, chisel capacity, whether chisels are included, and dust extraction. Benchtop units are the sensible starting point for most shops.
Does a mortising machine do tenons?
A mortising machine cuts mortises, not tenons. The hollow chisel is designed to shear a square socket, and there is no provision on these machines for shaping the shoulders and tapers a tenon needs. You cut tenons on a tablesaw, bandsaw, lathe or by hand, then fit them into the mortise the machine produced.
What is a good jig for routing mortises?
A plunge router with a dedicated mortise jig is the practical alternative for occasional mortising. Choose a jig that indexes positively and references the fence off the workpiece edge rather than a base plate, since edge referencing is what keeps repeat positions consistent. Router methods also handle end grain comfortably, which hollow chisel mortisers struggle with.
What is the best size mortise chisel to use?
Start with a 1/2 inch hollow chisel. It suits the majority of face frame, cabinet and furniture work and pairs with most benchtop machines. Add a 5/8 or 3/4 inch chisel for table rails, aprons and heavier frames, and only move to 1 inch chisels on a 1 hp machine with the capacity and torque to drive them.
Our Final Verdict on the Best Mortising Machines for 2026
The JET JBM-5 is the best mortising machine for most people reading this. Three chisels in the box, a reversible column, a depth stop for batch work and a 44 pound footprint that fits a normal bench. Its hold-down needs a small modification and its table adjustment is coarse, and neither of those will stop you cutting joinery.
Buy the Powermatic PM701 instead if you want 0.75 hp and 84 pounds of cast iron behind the cut and you are happy to order chisels separately. Buy the Powermatic 719T if you have a dedicated floor bay and work in heavy timber. Pick the Makita 7104L for timber, posts and end grain, the Virutex FC116U for door hardware, and the CXRCY if cost is the deciding factor.
Whichever you choose, sharpen the chisel before the first cut and keep a diamond plate or stone within reach. That single habit decides whether the machine gives you a clean square mortise or a scorched one.